Rock Climbing in Cacín - the best kept secret of south of Spain?
Updated: Feb 8
*In this blog you will find information on how to get to Cacín, links to the topos, as well as some other useful (hopefully!) information*
Where is Cacín? Coordinates: 36°58'00.1"N 2°49'04.4"W
2 hours driving from Granada, 1 hour away from Almería, 3 hours away from El Chorro... In the south of Sierra Nevada in the remote valley lies the impressive gorge - El Barranco de Cacín. I was amazed by the location, the wall and even though I haven't climbed many routes there, as we have only spent two days in Cacín - I was amazed by the quality of the rock. Quite a few local climbers said that this is definitely THE best rock climbing spot in the province of Almería and possibly one of the best spots in south of Spain. Visit Cacín to find out this for yourself! *****
You can find various sectors in the valley of Cacín. From local people we heard that El Mota is quite an old school sector, with one or two bolts missing in some routes and that the distances between the bolts are more spicy than usual. Not sure if this is completely accurate, if you know the area well - let me know, please! El Circo is the hardest wall in Cacín with routes up to 8a+/b. El Circo is also the furthest wall from the parking spot (around 45 min hike) and some people said that the approach is slightly sketchy. Once again, we haven't been there ourselves, therefore if you have - let me know, so I could update the information. El Circo looks very impressive from the photos though.
I will focus on the Sector Principal / Main Sector, as this is where we climbed two short days when we were there. You can see Sector Principal in the photo on the left together with Bagira observing some climbers. The wall has a late morning and early afternoon sun. Slightly overhanging, clean wall with technical climbing. Routes are not polished, even sharp in some of the places. The surrounding area is breathtaking, we were there in January and could see the mountain peaks covered in snow in the distance, yet we were climbing in t-shirts in the afternoon sun. What's not to love?
Routes that we climbed and/ or were recommended by locals in El Sector Principal: 6bs - Adios Vane, Blaquito, Operación Cabrito (one of them had a little chimney on the top of the route, scary for me, yet exciting at the same time). 6c+ - Aromas de Cacín. 7a - Te de Roca, Fucking Crisis. Zangano - 7b+ Press here to go to Toskajara website and access topos to El Sector Principal. *****
How to get to el Sector Principal?
Once again, these are the coordinates that you can use to arrive to the parking spot: 36°58'00.1"N 2°49'04.4"W Once you park the car, look in front of you towards the mountains and the valley. Photo on the left for reference. From here it is around 30 min hike all the way straight until you reach the main sector/ el sector principal, which will be on your right. It's an easy hike with a continuous slight elevation along the way.
I hope this short blog article will be useful for your next climbing adventure! Happy and safe climbing!